These days, US customers can choose between the WRX/STI and the Evo for Japanese rally-inspired street cars, but, for years, both were forbidden fruit on these shores. That doesn’t mean there were no choices, however, as we did get the Celica All-Trac Turbo, Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 and our feature car, the Mazda 323GTX.
With 130 horsepower, these are fairly tame, but they don’t weigh much and that’s a big bump over the non-GTX 323, which put out 87 horses. We’ve never driven one, but we hear these are great little handlers.
Our subject car has typical miles and isn’t completely beaten up, but we imagine it’s just one step away from the salvage yard. The seller mentions two areas of frame rust and a low quote to fix, but one wonders why he or she didn’t fix them if it’s so simple. We think this one’s well worth saving, but we wonder if it’s not already overpriced.
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Clayton, NC
$2,699 with one bid
08/01/2013: SOLD for $2,699 with one bid.
It wouldn’t be a 1980s Japanese performance car without DOHC 16V TURBO, or similar, badging. The seller didn’t include this on the ‘cons’ list, but this one’s clearly missing its lower rear spoiler. We wonder how hard that might be to find.
Seats look very supportive and the rest of the interior is pretty nice for an econobox of this age.
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If you are viewing this auction you most likely are aware of this car’s rarity and difficulty in locating one these days!
Car is appreciating in value. Last year a ‘GOOD’ condition 323GTX sold on BringaTrailer.com for $5500 and a non-running parts 323GTX for $3500 here on eBay.
For specific details not mentioned or other pics, please CALL (919-xxx-xxxx)
—Car fires right up and runs/drives well, needs attention to the area’s mentioned below. Overall a great Daily Driver to fix/modify/restore while being reliable transportation. Currently running on stock boost pressure (9psi) and delivering 138hp, EASILY can take 15psi before fuel cut triggers. Basic mods raise the output to 180+ (chip, intake, downpipe, boost controller) boottom end is factory strengthened and known to take 250HP. Easy parts availablility, motor is identical to early Miata 1.6L units but built for boost. I have driven the car at 15PSI and it PULLS HARD, surprised many passengers and other drivers 🙂
Engine:
147060miles
1.6L DOHC 16V
Turbocharged and Intercooled (Factory Front Mount)
Piston oil squirters, double thick connecting rods, oil panned finned to dissipitate heat
I have had the car since April 2012, the original owner traded it in at a Charlotte NC Mazda Dealer (it has been a NC car from new) and I bought it at auction, title went directly from the previous owners name to me.
CARFAX included, shows ZERO ACCIDENTS and only 2 owners from new. Clean NC title in my name.
Work done in the last year:
-New timing belt & tensioner
-new cam seals
-new valve cover gasket
-removed non-functional boost controller
-aftermarket cooling fan behind radiator (on whenever engine is running)
-thermal wrapped Intercooler hoses
-removed rusted exhaust manifold shielding (hence, the reason for thermal wrap)
-removed lower spoiler to check for hatch rust (none)
-aftermarket boost gauge added to steering column
PRO’S
-car starts up and runs VERY well every time
-CLEAN interior w/ uncracked dash, all gauges work, lights, etc
-Recaro-made front seats
-engine revs very well, stays cool all the time
-original faded paint and decals
-driven 4hrs back in Summer heat w/o issue
-driven twice a week to maintain gasket moisture/battery condition
-extremely rare
-Fulltime 4WD w/ Driver controlled locking Planetary Differential
-all original undamaged glass
-NO MODIFICATIONS, INTERIOR – EXTERIOR AND ENGINE ARE STOCK (besides gauge)
-NO FLOOR OR HATCH TRUNK RUST
-as far as I can tell, never smoked in
CON’S
-sunroof works but I taped over the seals as our recent torrential downpours caused a tiny bit to seep in
-minor rust bubbles on rear wheelarches (sprayed with Rustoleum)
-A/C intact and compressor clutch engages, no coolant
-passenger seat shoulder threads seperating a bit
-drivers window switch broke (common) I rewire the drivers pass switch to open drivers windows, by switching thwe wires it disabled passenger windows from opening (easy fix and worked perfect before)
-some of the grey/black interior fabric has faded to purple-ish
-shifter bushings need replacing (sloppy, but always goes into gear)
-2 small 6″ areas of frame rust, minor and easily fixed (Custom Welding shop quoted me $120 to plasma cut the areas (3″x7″) and weld in new heavy plate)
-only immediate mechanical thing I would want to address is the passenger side CV joint clicking under load when turning